Dog Anatomy
Clean ears are much less prone to developing ear trouble, so if necessary, clean your dog's ears once a
week with a cotton swab. How-ever, most ear complaints should have the vet's attention in the early stages,
because they can be difficult to eradicate once established.
When cleaning the ears, use a cotton swab slightly moistened with warm water or olive oil. Turn the swab gently
and lift the matter out rather than compacting it -- never probe into the ear recesses, as this may cause further
problems. If applying ear drops, hold the animal's head still, drop the fluid down the ear canal and gently
massage the area with your finger.
The eye is a very delicate organ and shouldn't be messed around with. If in any doubt, go to the vet, as
mild conditions can deteriorate quite quickly. Do not put anything in or near the eye that is not specifically
labelled for ophthalmic use (particularly antiseptics), and don't use an old eye preparation left over from a
previous occasion. Growths or swellings in the area of the eyes need immediate veterinary attention, as they may
spread or cause other complications.
Removing a foreign body
Try to remove the object with tweezers or a cotton swab if visible. Laceration of the eyeball itself or
penetration by a foreign body is very serious and should receive the vet's attention immediately. Don't
try to remove anything imbedded in the eye yourself --leave it to the vet.
How to apply eye drops
Tilt dog s head back and pull lower eyelid down slightly. Drop the lotion from its own applicator into the
inner corner of eye. Continue to hold the head back for a moment or two while the drops disperse over the whole
eye surface. Do not touch the eye itself with the dropper.
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The most usual reason for problems with your dog's muscles and bone structure will come as the result of
some accident, injury or external factor - such as being hit by a car - so if he develops sudden lameness in one
or more legs or any other unusual movement, it's prudent to get the vet to check him over.
Removing a foreign body
Pull the foreign body out with tweezers and bathe any remaining small wound with a suitable antiseptic obtained
from the vet or a pet shop. If the object is deeply imbedded or you can feel but not see it clearly, go to the
vet. If the dog has picked up a stone from a newly tarred road. scrape off as much tar as you can and then rub the
pad gently with butter to remove the rest
Pedicures
If your dog's claws need clipping, use special animal clippers from a pet shop and cut the nail in front of
the quick. If you cut through the quick itself, it will bleed and almost certainly hurt your pet. The bleeding
should eventually stop, but you can hurry it up by dabbing the claw with flour or drawing a styptic pencil across
the remaining nail. Don't be surprised if the dog is less likely to be enthusiastic about future claw-clipping
exercises after this!
Check over your dog's mouth and teeth regularly, and if you clean his teeth occasionally, using a clean
cloth moistened in saltwater, it will help pre-vent tartar from building up. Chewable toys, like the
"bones" and "chews" made of processed hide available from a pet shop, will also keep his teeth
and gums in good condition. Damaged or loose teeth should receive veterinary attention as soon as possible,
although they don't normally pose a serious problem. Bleeding gums or bright red edging where the gums meet
the teeth are usually an indication of gum disease (often caused by tartar) and should be checked to prevent the
complaint from spreading.
Removing a foreign body
If your dog suddenly starts pawing at his mouth and salivating but presents no other symptoms he may have a
foreign body stuck between his teeth (ie a bone or wood splinter). If this is the case, steady his head while
keeping his mouth open, and try to prise the object loose with a clean cocktail stick or your finger. When
something is lodged between the back teeth and roof of mouth try to flick it free with a teaspoon handle. Anything
that remains persistently stuck or is very far back in throat needs the vet's attention.
A dog's nose should always be clean and any secretions should be clear and watery. A sticky, cloudy,
yellowish or greenish discharge is abnormal and should be investigated. The nose should be cold to the touch but
don't rely on it for too exact a guide to the dog's temperature, good health or sickness. If you suspect
that the dog has something stuck in its nose, go to the vet -such things are not easy to remove at home and an
attempt to do so may do more harm than good.
Applying nose drops
Tip the dogs head back so his nose points upwards and he can't see what you are doing. Apply several nose
drops to the nostrils, but don't touch the nose itself with the dropper. The drops will work their way in with
gravity and the natural breathing motions. If the animal develops a nose bleed put a cold compress on the top and
sides of the nose and press hard. You can also try putting damp bits of gauze into the nostrils but the dog is
unlikely to co-operate. If the bleeding recurs or is abnormally profuse or pro-longed, check with the vet.
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The average dog breaths about 30-50 times a minute. After exercise or excitement and on warm days naturally he
breathes much faster -and when his chest or respiratory system is affected, your dog's breathing will be
different too. Sneezing or even pawing at the nose is seldom an indication of anything serious unless it is
persistent and causing the dog distress. Minor irritations such as dust or pollen may cause your dog to sneeze -
perhaps for quite some time - but won't be a problem unless an allergic reaction results. If, however, you
think your dog looks generally "off-colour" check with the vet as many respiratory complaints are highly
contagious. Kennel cough in particular is most commonly found In dogs which have spent some time in kennels (hence
its common name).
Often, if your dog picks up some chest infection the vet will want you to nurse him back to health at home -
partly because many such complaints are easily spread and partly because he will feel happier in familiar
surroundings and so respond better to treatment. You'll need to keep him warm and dry, away from dusty or
particularly dry atmospheres which may worsen his condition and confined to a small area so he can't overdo
things.
To help clear his nostrils you can gently sponge his nose and smear on a little petroleum jelly to prevent it
cracking. If he's very bunged up you can administer nosedrops or an inhalant (from the vet). A good substitute
for the latter is 15-20 minutes spent in a warm, steamy bathroom! Hygiene is of the utmost importance in all cases
of illness but especially so when dealing with respiratory complaints, so wash your hands every time you handle
the dog and keep his dishes scrupulously clean - particularly if there are other dogs around.
Many dogs will vomit occasionally in the normal course of events, especially if they"ve been scavenging,
and won't suffer any ill effects. Don't worry if your young dog is sick once in a while either - he's
probably just been exploring what's edible and what's not! Dietary disorders are often the cause of
stomach trouble and although most dogs adore bones they are often the cause of such complaints - constipation and
intestinal blockage in particular.
However, if any symptom persists for more than a few hours, is accompanied by deep malaise or weakness in the
dog, or there is evidence of blood in stools or vomit go to the vet at once.
BEWARE that some very severe cases of diarrhoea, accompanied by straining, can easily be mistaken for
constipation. If you suspect this Go To The Vet Immediately.
You can prevent many problems from occurring in this area by making sure your dog always has plenty of fresh
water to drink. Never withhold water from him if he has urinary problems. Basic-ally, when and wherever you notice
something wrong or out of the ordinary with your dog's waterworks, call the vet.
Incontinence
This is usually a problem with an old or sick dog and should not be confused with the situation where an animal
has had to "go" indoors even though he has control over his bladder. Rather, incontinence is the
unconscious passing of urine. See if the vet can do something about it, but never restrict the dog's water
intake as this will distress him. If sores appear on his body through the frequent passing of urine, make sure he
lies on plenty of absorbent bedding (such as a pile of old towels) and spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly over
the area of skin usually wetted by the urine.
A further problem with older dogs may result from a chronic form of nephritis. Animals with this complaint
often lose their appetites and develop a severe thirst. Unlike dogs with ordinary nephritis, they may pass large
quantities of pale urine and rapidly lose weight. Incontinence may also result from damaged kidneys.
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Heat in bitches usually last from 18-21 days although conception is only possible for a few days around the
middle of the heat. The first indication that heat is starting will be a puffiness of the lips of the vulva. Then
bleeding starts (incidentally this is in no way comparable to human menstruation). For the next 4-14 days (on
average 10) the bitch is extremely attractive to male dogs, but she won't have anything to do with them until
the bleeding diminishes and the vulva is at its largest. This "fertile period" lasts for 5-12 days - the
bitch is at her most fertile during the first two or three.
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